Lost in Spain, In Love…

“I’m not stupid or lost. It’s Google Map – there isn’t a road going off to the right – just look for yourself,” Chris expostulated.

“Well maybe that little dirt track by the riverbed was the road on the map,” I retorted huffily.

“If you think you know so much let’s go back there then,” snapped Chris.

“I wouldn’t mind walking all day but what about Alan? He must be wondering what has happened to us. I told him we’d be back in an hour and a half and we’re already an hour over… and we have to walk back yet,” I stressed unnecessarily.

We found the dirt track and went up in the right direction for the main road back to Frigiliana. We also found that it looked very much like a farm driveway; there were orange trees (I picked three so that we shouldn’t starve if we couldn’t find civilisation) and trees with fruit like small peaches (and very tasty they were). Right at the top of the strange road was a car and mechanical tools simply left in the middle of the road. Up ahead was a house.

“The farmer’s having lunch,” I laughed, “He’ll hear us and pop his head over the wall in a minute…”

At that moment the farmer called out from the top of the wall. Luckily he was a nice farmer with a pleasant smile. He could speak no English (to speak of) and, likewise, we could speak no relevant Spanish. Nevertheless, we were all quite adept at sign language and he soon understood our predicament.

“The olives – no trouble me,” he said pointing to his olive grove on the mountainside (the road was above). Then he looked at me and shrugged.

“Maa….maaa….” I bleated.

Our scramble up through the olive grove at a forty-five degree angle was most exhilarating and exciting, in fact it was our best walk. We weren’t lost and our tiff was soon forgotten. And tomorrow we’ll be home in Devon – how surreal!

 

 

Hearts of Stone

Occasionally I come across a heart-shaped pebble on the beach and, if it is small enough, I pop it into my pocket as a keepsake; but never before have I encountered so many heart-shaped stones as I did when Chris and I went on the gorge walk between Frigiliana and Nerja (Southern Spain, where we are holidaying at present, if you haven’t been following my blog). I brought only one back to the cortijo but I shall not be taking it home to Devon at the weekend – we’re travelling light with Ryanair and the heart must weigh a stone!

Incidentally, Chris thought I was mad to take photographs of stones. He looked stony-faced at me. Guess I’m the romantic while he’s just gorgeous.

 

Fernando Come Home

“I wonder if we’ll see Fernando again,” I said ruefully, “I hated saying goodbye to him at the gate yesterday – I wish we had invited him in.”

“Yes, but if you give an inch they’ll take a mile. We did the right thing,” Chris assured.

At the time Chris and I were taking the longer route back to the cortijo after another escapade up the mountain and I rather hoped that we would bump into Fernando again coming down the hill. We reached the driveway where we had first met him and I took a few steps around the bend for a better view.

“I can’t see anyone,” I said disappointedly.

“He’s probably in the village,” Chris responded, “I expect he gave up waiting for you.”

“I think I loved him,” I said.

“I know,” Chris gave me a pat on the arm, “Don’t  worry, I’m certain you’ll see him again.” (I’m so lucky to have an understanding husband.)

“Hope so,” I tried to be positive and I turned to walk back down the road.

“Darling, look who’s here!” Chris said just as Fernando ran up to me.

And Fernando came home with us, and this time we invited him inside. We introduced him to Alan who was finishing his breakfast and I made eggs and bacon for three.

Fernando, unaccustomed to the  traditional English breakfast (and a little unsure of the correct way to eat the dish), decided to eat one egg first, then the other followed by the bacon.

“He eats in a very refined manner,” remarked Alan, who spoke as if Fernando wasn’t there  or was deaf (which is a bit ironic because both Alan and Chris are a tad deaf – more than a tad in Alan’s case!).

“He probably hasn’t had eggs before,” said Chris.

“I shouldn’t think so,” laughed Alan. “What made you think he would like raw eggs, Sally?”

“Well, when I was farm-sitting for Rosie and I accidentally dropped an egg, Inca and Malachy went crazy for it and ate the lot, shell and all! Now I have to deliberately drop an egg now and then for a treat!”

Fernando got a bit desperate for our breakfasts too so I had to lure him with another egg to get him back down to the gate. I felt sad shutting the gate on him – I do love him you know…

 

 

El Castillo

You can see the castle from nearly everywhere in Frigiliana – all you have to do is look up! El Castillo sits at the very top of the mountain on which the spectacular white village has grown over many centuries. “The only way is up”, as they say, which couldn’t be truer if your destination is El Castillo. It would also be true to say that our walk to the top of the mountain was the highlight of our holiday!

A Fish Called…?

I rather wish I hadn’t insisted on buying the white fish called BacavaBaclavaBacalva, well, it was something like balaclava but more Spanish; anyway, it was quite an attractive fillet of white fish, as far as fillets of fish go. Our friend and neighbour Alan, who is on holiday with us, likes to have fish twice a week so we made a special visit to the Super Sol Supermercado, which has a fresh fish counter (we had dissuaded him from buying frozen fish at Lidl’s). Alan preferred the appearance of the pink fish next to the white ones but I was put off by the red bits, which looked like blood (I’m a tad squeamish) and he conceded because he knew we weren’t crazy about getting fish in the first place (not plaice).

I don’t think Chris and Alan enjoyed their dinner very much tonight; I know I certainly didn’t! I don’t care if I never eat fish again! (In fact I hope not if it’s anything like tonight’s fish.) What was wrong with it? Well, it was a large piece of fish and I took great care in cutting out the bones, then cutting the fillet down into smaller, more appetising pieces – about seven in all (I thought I might get away with having only one myself without anyone noticing). Now had I been at home, with my own larder, I most probably would have made a nice batter and deep-fried the fillets; or I could have made breadcrumbs – even a spoon of flour and shallow-fried might have been okay… Sadly, when in Spain on holiday you have nothing but a bit of butter and a bottle of olive oil at your disposal – oh, and a lemon from the tree by the front door.

Seasoned with a squeeze of lemon and a little salt, the Baccalavia went into the frying pan with a knob of butter and a squirt of olive oil. I began to worry somewhat when the liquid in the pan increased tenfold in volume and the fish was being poached instead of frying (as intended). I poured away a breakfast bowlful of the yellow fluid and returned the pan to the hob.

“I was hoping it would go crisp and brown on the outside,” I apologised, putting the plates on the table.

“This would do nicely as the invalid’s dinner at the nursing home,” Chris said as he observed his large serving of fish.

“It certainly wouldn’t break any teeth,” agreed Alan and I thought I could detect a look of disappointment in his face as he eyed his huge portion of poached Balaclava (well he was the one who wanted fish).

“Anyone want some ice-cream?” I asked. “I’m still hungry.”

“You hardly had any fish,” Alan jibed (he had just forced down his last mouthful of watery white Balcallivia).

“And hardly any boiled potato either,” Chris added with a sneer.

“I’m dieting,” I said and the men exchanged dubious glances.

As a sort of recompense I did the washing up (and drying up and putting away), which I don’t do normally when I’ve also done the cooking. And while I was at the task the men were still sat at the table, discussing our unusual fish dinner.

“I wonder what kind of fish that was?” Alan asked.

“I thought it looked like cod,” I interrupted, “maybe Baclavia means cod in Spanish?”

“It most definitely wasn’t cod,” Alan asserted, “it had a strange texture, like nothing I’ve ever experienced before.”

“No, it wasn’t cod,” Chris agreed, “but I’ll tell you something, it should win an award… for being the blandest fish ever!”

“Next time Alan wants fish I’m going to eat steak,” I laughed.

“And I shall join you,” said Chris.

“I should have stuck with the frozen salmon from Lidl’s,” Alan said ruefully.

Chris and I nodded and we all burst out laughing.

Flowers and Fields in the Evening Sunshine (Around Frigiliana, Spain))

The setting sun cast a warm glow and made it a glorious walk…

 

“Ice Cold in Alex”

Desperate for exercise and excitement, I convinced Chris it would be a good idea to go on the gorge walk from Frigiliana to neighbouring Nerja (Southern Spain). He wasn’t too keen at first as it was an exceedingly hot day and it was the hottest part of the day when we set out. Of course he was right – “Only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun” – but I was yearning to go and he didn’t have the heart to ruin my pleasure.

Before long the sweat streamed off our brows. The bottles of cold water I carried in my rucksack became tepid; the can of Lidl’s fake Coke was never going to be as good as ‘The real thing’, even straight from the fridge, and it proved to be much worse than anticipated in its warm state; and the sandwiches went limp and lifeless. The thing that kept us going was the memory of an ice-cold beer, served in a frosty cold glass, from the old taverna at El Molino de Acette (or “Antonio’s bar” as we call it). As we made our way down the gorge we talked with relish about that cold beer… and I don’t even drink! Not normally, unless it’s boiling, and then I like the first glug from a glass or bottle of ice cold beer.

“If Antonio invites you into the shed to see his avocados again, what will you do?” Chris asked.

“I won’t fall for that old trick again,” I assured him, “just don’t leave me alone with him”.

“I won’t, but he did serve good beer – didn’t he?” Chris salivated.

We didn’t follow the dry riverbed all the way down to the sea – Antonio’s Bar is about a mile and a half from the outskirts of the hillside village, but it is a long way up. Hot and thirsty we trudged up to the bar by the roadside and a pretty young woman brought us two cold beers served in two cold glasses. Antonio must have retired. The glasses were not quite as cold, nor was the beer quite as good as Antonio’s; nevertheless we had that “Ice Cold in Alex” moment… (hope you remember the film with John Mills and Silva Simms, and the long awaited beer they had promised themselves at the end of their gruelling wartime adventure in the desert) and I was spared having to inspect the former owner’s avocados.

San Isidro Day

Yesterday was San Isidro Day, a public holiday, and a cause for great celebration in this part of Spain. Purely by chance (we were looking for somewhere to park) we found that we were in the perfect spot to catch the beginning of the procession. Here are the best of my photographs and a piece from a publication called  “Explore Nerja”, which gives a bit more information about the festival.

Nerja > fiestas (From Explore Nerja)

Nerja thanks San Isidro

The day dedicated to San Isidro, patron saint of farmers and laborers, is a colourful and popular affair where you’ll see many of the things that you’d associate with picture postcard Spain. Women in vibrant flamenco dresses and men riding beautiful Andalusian horses dressed in their finest traditional clothes with wide rimed cordobes hats are everywhere, giving visitors the best chance of the year to see such a sight in the town.

San Isidro leaves the Balcón de Europa<br /><br />
One of the many horsemen who escort San Isidro to the caves chapel
Local farmers decorate their carts for the procession
A horseman in front of the national park mountians
Local partygoers stop for a quick photo
Even humble mules and donkeys take part in San Isidro
One of the decorated carts with the Mediterranean Sea in the background
San Isidro returns to his chapel at the nerja caves

The day revolves around local farmers giving thanks to San Isidro and asking for good fortune in the coming year.
Isidore the laborer was a man born in Madrid in 1070 who was known for his compassion to animals and the poor up until his death at the age of fifty nine. He was canonized in 1622 by Pope Gregory XV and is a figure celebrated all over Spain and indeed the world from South America to the Philippines. Madrid took him to be the cities patron saint and each year puts aside the 15th of May to honor him as do many spanish cities, villages and islands.
In Nerja the celebrations begin the night of the 14th with the party starting at the Nerja Caves at around 21:30 however this is just a precursor to the next day. On the 15th the day begins with the religious aspects of the event. A mass is given in the church of El Salvador on the Balcón de Europa at 11:00. This typically includes performances from the Peña Nerjeña choir and locals will make offerings to the saint. This is followed by tributes in front of the church by a number of local groups. From here, the procession or Romeria de San Isidro begins. A statue of the saint is put on a simple cart normally decorated by flowers and pulled by oxen to the Nerja Caves. It’s accompanied by hundreds of people from the town including carriages, carts, horses, oxen and tractors with local farmers coming in from neighboring villages. All are brightly decorated for the occasion which more often than not enjoys perfect weather.
The procession is approximately 3km long and can take three to four hours to reach its destination. It generally reaches the caves at around 14:30 with a formal timetable of events starting an hour or so later with various awards given to horsemen, carriages and floats. From here the party begins, going on well into the night. The evening will start off with a relatively traditional feel and slowly move over to more modern music with one big, open air, dance floor.
It’s worth knowing that during the two evenings of the 14th and 15th there is a regular bus service operating to and from the caves. Times for these are not set in stone but usually buses are operating between 22:00 until 07:00 on the evening of the 14th and from 10:00 until 01:30 on the 15th, so theres no need to stress over designated drivers and parking if you want to take full advantage of the party atmosphere. If you’d like to see the San Isidro parade you’ll find it’s an ideal excuse for a quick getaway. Why not take a look at our rentals pages and maybe you’ll find a great deal covering the festival period.

Events Timetable

Friday 15th May

  • 11:00 Mass in the El Salvador Church on the Balcon de Europa.
  • 12:00 Performances outside the church followed by the procession or Romeria.
  • 14:00 Arrival at the caves.
  • 15:30 The “Verbena” (open air dance) begins at the Caves.
  • 17:00 Prizes awarded to procession participants.
  • 18:30 The Verbena continues.
  • 00:00 Midnight – End of the Verbena

– See more at: http://www.explorenerja.com/fiestas/san_isidro_in_nerja.htm#sthash.kdRC6uhY.dpuf

Frigiliana

At every turn on the cobbled streets of Frigiliana there is something to take your breath away – colourful window-boxes, secret alleyways and courtyards adorned with blossoming  trees, tiled doorways and doors of all colours against white walls. No wonder it is noted for being one of the prettiest villages in Spain.

Ice Creams in Nerja

Well, you have to have an ice cream when in Nerja….